Trash compactor is a useful appliance and that is why no need to get upset when you realize that it is broken. All trash compactor parts can be easily replaced. Of course, everything can be done without turning to specialists but it is necessary to keep in mind the time one might spend by fixing kitchen trash compactor. Besides, a trash compactor replacement process is not so easy and that is why it is always better to call up a professional person in order to get qualified trash compactor repair help. A compactor is a device to compress rubbish. It consists of a ram or crushing device that has 2,000 or more pounds of pressure and a motor to push it. The motor assembly, at the rear, is a chain drive and sprocket combination. Threaded shafts, turned by the chain drive, force the ram down. There are various electrical controls and safety devices . Some models have blowers to keep heat and odor levels down. No maintenance is required, but electrical and mechanical problems can arise. Electrical problems are those common to all motored appliances switches and the motor, the leads and their connectors. These appliances do have a number of switches. Thus a typical KitchenAid model has a filter switch, key interlock switch, start-stop program switch, directional switch, drawer front interlock switch, interlock bypass switch, and ram switch. All these switches can be tested for continuity. They control the operation and safety features. If the trash compactor refuses to start, you go through the usual steps first check power sources including the cord, plug, the wall plug itself, the fuse or circuit breaker involved, then check out the front safety switch and rear safety switch. Any switch can fail.

Next, the motor and relay (if it has one the KitchenAid under discussion uses a starting winding rather than a relay) must be checked out. Always assume that the motor is not the culprit in an appliance with a heavy duty motor, such as this one, but distrust everything up to the motor.  Among principal switches on a compactor are filter switch, key interlock switch, and start-stop program switch. In the Kitchen Aid model, the small fan motor (a 2-speed motor) is not in the main motor circuit. The electrical circuit goes from the three prong, grounded switch (ground is a green wire) to the interlock front switch via the black wire, to the key interlock switch, to the start-stop switch and the ram switch. The ram switch is wired with brown and orange leads off the start-stop switch. Next is the blue lead from the start- stop switch to the directional switch, then to the motor. The Perils of Pauline have nothing on the flow of electrical current to the motor. The motor's start windings are black and red. The main winding lead is blue; a black lead that becomes brown feeds into the motor protection device, then goes to the opposite pole of the main winding, turning on the motor. The interlock switches, and the ram switch, are simple, basically 2-lead affairs. The directional switch that controls motor operation has six positions. The start- stop switch has two leads for the ram switch and two for the key interlock and directional switches.

If you test switches for continuity, you have to sort out the leads. Some leads can be tested from nearby connectors that come apart. Others will require clips or prongs that penetrate the insulation. On trash compactors with relay switches instead of starting windings in the motor, the relay should be tested for continuity before anything else. In making continuity tests, you can test often by the color of the leads. (When only two leads are involved, there is no problem.) But in a switch such as the directional switch of the KitchenAid compactor, with six leads in and out, and not necessarily on opposing sides of the switch, it becomes tricky to test all the leads. You need a color-coded chart of wiring destinations to do a thorough test. As it happens, the only way to test the motor in this unit is by eliminating that directional switch from suspicion. Of course, you can disconnect the motor and test it, or you can use probes that penetrate the insulation and test its leads. But testing a motor for continuity or resistance, using an ohmmeter or a light tester, can be deceptive with its leads connected. If the leads go to switches that are defective, the motor will give a false reading. To some extent, the reverse of this situation is true; a defective switch reading can be falsified because of its connection to a motor, but that would generally be true only in the closed-switch position. Mechanically, the trouble spots in a compactor would involve the sprockets, the gears, the drive chain, and the threaded shaft or jack-like posts which drive the ram. The chain can break or wear, and the shafts or posts can get so gummed up that the ram can't move completely through its cycle (down and up).

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